Vina del Mar & Valparaiso

Another early morning to tour the coastal cities of Vina del Mar and Valparaiso.  It was going to be a beautiful day with the temperature in the upper 70s.

Vina del Mar is northwest of Santiago and is known for its gardens, beaches and high rise buildings.  The name means "Vineyard by the Sea", but it's nickname is The Garden City.  The population is 350,000 and is known for the large municipal gaming casino, beaches, public gardens and theaters.  Army and navy garrisons, petroleum depots and processing and fabricating industries add to the city's economic base.

Our next stop was going to be at the fish market at the beach.  We drove past the vibrant colors of the Flower Clock.  This landmark sits at the foot of a hill overlooking the Pacific Ocean  It was built in 1962 at the start of the World Cup games in Chile.  The clock mechanism is Swiss and the arms are each over 9 feet long.

The fish market was packed with people as they purchased fresh fish.  What a sight to see: octopus, salmon, tuna and sea urchins.  As we exited out of the market, we walked right onto the sandy beach. There were homeless dogs playing along the beach.  These dogs keep an eye on everything.  As I walked along a dog flew by me to scare off the pelicans and seagulls and then he ran towards the surf as he thought the sea lions were getting too close to the sandy beach.

Off to Valparaiso.  It is a major city, seaport and educational center in this area and is the headquarters for the Chilean National Congress.  Valparaiso played an important role in the 19th century, as the city served as a major stopover for ships traveling between the Atlantic and Pacific oceans via the Straits of Magellan.  The city was known by international sailors as "Little San Francisco" and "The Jewel of the Pacific".

In 1906 an earthquake, with a magnitude of 8.2, hit this city and then a tsunami followed.  Much of the city was destroyed.  The opening of the Panama Canal in 1914 and reduction in ship traffic dealt a serious blow to the economy.  Many wealthy families abandoned the city.

Today, tourists come from all over to enjoy the city's labyrinth of cobbled alleys and colorful buildings with unique murals throughout the city.  This is the absolute mecca of street art in Chile and possibly all of South America.  Graffiti artists and muralists from all over the world come here to leave their mark on the walls.  The murals were so colorful and expressed their opinions through their art work.

One of my favorites was the piano stairs, a tribute to Beethoven.  A lifelike mural of a gorgeous, young and happy girl met you as you turned a corner of one street to another.  Throughout the alleys we went, observing each of the colorful, spectacular murals.  I was glad that we had a tour guide who knew how to maneuver through this city.

Lunch was at a restaurant that overlooked the city.

We ended the day at a winery, Veramonte, in Casablanca Valley.  This is one of the largest vineyard in Chile and has only been around since 1990.  The wine steward offered us a taste of Veramonte's signature red and white wines.  The crisp bouquets of the wines were refreshing and vibrant.

Back to the hotel we went to prepare for another day of touring vineyards.

Santiago, Chile

It was early morning when Kenny and I disembarked the cruise line and boarded the bus.  The day would be spent with about 35 other passengers and our bubbly tour guide.

Santiago was about two hours from the San Antonio port.  Our guide was so enthusiastic as she talked about Santiago and her love for this wonderful city.

Some interesting facts that our guide told us about the country of Chile and Santiago:

* Population of Chile is 17 million and the population of Santiago is 7 1/2 million.
* 80% of the terrain is mountains and hills.
* Size of Chile = 2,653 miles north to south and only 110 miles east to west.
* During the 20th century, Chile has been struck by 28 major earthquakes(force greater than 6.9)
* Chile is known for their wineries.  There are about 400.  Most of the wines are exported to China.
* Economy = 50% of it is copper and the other 50% is fruits/vegetables, exporting wine, fishing and software
* Santiago is the capital of Chile.
* Nothing is free.  They pay for education(elementary to college).
* Main roads are private.
* Religion = 65% are Catholics; 25% are Protestants; 10% are Muslim
* Divorce Rate is at 70%
* National Sport is Chilean rodeo.  A waso is a Chilean countryman and skilled horseman, similar to the American cowboy.
* Expensive to live in Santiago.  More economic to live outside of the city.

As we drove to the city center, Plaza de Armas, our driver took us on a scenic tour through Santiago Metropolitan Park.  This park is located within the city and it is one of the largest urban parks in the world.  This park has two large, open-air pools, a cable car that takes visitors from the base of the hill to the summit, zoo, botanical garden and a children's park.  As we drove up to the summit, the views of Santiago were breathtaking.

We walked the grounds of the presidential building and then proceeded to the Stock Exchange to see the historical Trading Floor.  From there, we walked to Plaza de Armas, which was the original center of Santiago.  This is where the people use to gather for visiting, entertainment, dancing and singing.  We then toured the Santiago Metropolitan Cathedral.  This cathedral is the seat of the Archbishop of Santiago de Chile.  The construction began in 1748 and ended in 1800.  Kenny and I toured the church and were in awe of how massive and ornate this cathedral is.

Back on the bus and the driver drove us to Santa Rita winery, which is about 45 minutes from Santiago.  This winery was founded in 1880 and is one of the most prestigious and traditional wineries in Chile.  Santa Rita 120, a delicious range of bold and well-balanced wines, is one of their best.  How did they come about in naming it Santa Rita 120?   The story tells that Bernardo O'Higgins and 120 men hid in the Santa Rita wine cellars, during the bloody battles of the Chilean war of independence.  The story explained that it was these brave men, who inspired the Santa Rita 120 brand name.after fighting against the Spanish army for National Independence.

After having lunch and a tour of the winery, the bus headed to the international airport to drop off the passengers that were flying back to their homes.  Kenny and I got a taxi to a hotel, as we wanted to explore Santiago for a few more days.

Sailing South America

"Travel opens your heart, broadens your mind and fills your life with stories to tell."

As I conclude my cruise sailing the southern part of South America, I reflect on my trip and the people that I encountered, as well as the places that I visited.

Kenny and I boarded the Star Princess on January 3 in Buenos Aries, Argentina.  We had flown in a few days before to explore this beautiful city.

This cruise was a 14 day trip with six ports of calls, ending at the port of San Antonio, which is about two hours from Santiago, Chile.  This ship can carry a maximum of 3,100 passengers with a crew of 1,205.  This particular cruise had 2,600 passengers with 1,200 from the U.S.A.  There were many countries represented:  Canada, New Zealand, Australia, Russia, Korea, Japan, Germany and others.

It is always exciting on the first day, as you locate where your room and explore out the various decks, locating the restaurants, buffet area, spa, gym, pools, theater, etc.

On our cruise, we always enjoy having designated seating for dinner at a specific time and with the same group of individuals.  This gives you an opportunity to get to know someone better.  Our dinner mates were couples from Florida, California and Michigan.  The majority of them were retired and enjoy traveling.  It is great meeting new individuals, as everybody has a story and a very interesting background.

As well as meeting all the different passengers, you also get to know the crew members, such as your cabin steward, waiters and waitresses in the the various restaurants, cruise directors for all the activities on ship, etc.  All these crew members come from many countries: the Philippines, Central and South America, Hungary, Russia, etc.

The Cruise Director plays an important part on the ship as he or she plans all the activities that occur on board, especially the days that you are at sea.  Each night your cabin, receives a newsletter stating all the activities that will occur the next day.  Some of the activities on board were lectures on the ports that the ship would be docking at for land excursions; lectures on some of the great explorers, such as Christopher Columbus, Ferdinand Magellan and others.  Kenny and I attended Spanish Lessons; Dancing(cha-cha, tango...); art auctions; movies; fitness seminars and the evening performances.  The evening performances were singers, magician, musicals and so much more.

I enjoyed seeing families and friends playing board games, working puzzles and playing cards.  It was also nice not seeing every individual on their phone, as internet access is difficult to access on the ship.

The total distance traveled from Buenos Aires, Argentina to San Antonio, Chile was 3,956.3 nautical miles.

Summary of our 14 day cruise:
Thursday, January 3 - boarded the Star Princess.  Overnight stay.
Friday, January 4 - ship sailed at 6:30 pm to Montevideo, Uruguay
Saturday, January 5 - docked in Montevideo at 8 am.  Toured the city.
Sunday, January 6 - sea day.  Sailing to Puerto Madryn, Argentina.
Monday, January 7 - docked at 8 am.  Took a tour to Valdes Peninsula to see the sea lions, penguins, and elephant lions.  Took sail out of the Gulfo Nuevo and back out to the Southern Atlantic Ocean. Next port of call is Stanley, Falkland Islands.
Tuesday, January 8 - at sea.  Due to heavy weather encountered and an even worse forecast, the captain made the decision to alter the ship's track to try and avoid the worst of the heavy seas and strong wind.  This unfortunately led to cancelling Stanley/Falkland Islands.  The ship proceeded directly to Cape Horn.
Wednesday, January 9 - at sea.  Strong winds.
Thursday, January 10 - At around 12:20 pm, Star Princess arrived at Hornos Island, which is the southernmost island of Chile's Tierra del Fuego archipelago and home of the infamous Cape Horn.  Southerly point of headland of South America.  This is also where the Pacific and Atlantic Oceans meet.  What a wonderful experience!  Now to Ushuaia, Argentina.  Docked at 11:30 p.m.
Friday, January 11 - Half day tour.  We visited Pipo River Valley in the Tierra del Fuego National Park; Ensenada Bay overlooking Beagle Channel, Roca Lake and Lapataia Bay.  An enjoyable day at the "End of the World".  At 4:30 p.m., we were sailing to Punta Arenas.
Saturday, January 12 - At 7:30 am, anchors were set inside the Magellan strait.  Today would be a tender service from the ship to the dock of Punta Arenas.  Kenny and I took a catamaran to Magdalena Island to see the home of 25,000 penguins.  The ride back from the Island to the dock was an adventure as the wind was gusting at around 50 mph and the swells were from 4 to 6 feet.  At 8 pm, the anchors were brought up and the ship sailed to exit Magellan strait and to set course for Amalia Glacier.
Sunday, January 13 - Today was Amalia Glacier.  Everyone on the ship enjoyed the spectacular views of the glacier.
Monday, January 14 - at sea.  Next port of call, Puerto Montt.
Tuesday, January 15 - In the early morning, the Star Princess made her approach to Puerto Montt.  This was another tender service day.  Visited Monumento Natural Lahuen Nadi, a German Village and Puerto Varas "City of Roses".  6:30 pm, anchors up and we proceed to sea for our final port of call, San Antonio.
Wednesday, January 16 - at sea.  Spent the day saying good-bye to new friends.  Enjoyed a beautiful sunset!
Thursday, January 17 - In the early hours of the morning, Star Princess embarked to the San Antonio pier.  At 6:45 am, Kenny and I were off the ship and on a tour to enjoy the city of Santiago.  We would be staying a few more days in Santiago to enjoy the city, the beaches and the wineries.

It was a spectacular three weeks of seeing another continent and enjoying the panoramic scenery that God had created!

I love these quotes:
"traveling, it leaves you speechless, then turns you into a storyteller"
"we take photos as a return ticket to a moment otherwise gone"

I am ready to share my stories and my photos!

Puerto Montt, Chile

In the early morning, the Star Princess made her approach to Puerto Montt.  At 6:35 am, the ship anchored in the bay area.  Shortly after, tendered services began and kept running throughout the day, ferrying passengers and crew ashore.

As Kenny and I entered the tender, we could tell that we were now further north as the temperature was much warmer.  We were in awe of the multitude of snow-capped volcanoes and the alpine valleys surrounded by rolling hills.  The Osorno Volcano is often called the “Fujiyama of South America”.  This iconic snow-capped landmark rises over 8,700 feet and is an active, but currently dormant volcano.

The climate in Puerto Montt provides highs in the 70s in summer and in the high 30s during winter.  Precipitation is frequent, with an average of 219  rainy days each year.  That morning at breakfast, one of the crew members commented that they would probably go ashore as it wasn’t raining.  He said each time they were in this port, it was raining.  The daylight length has decreased here and not as long as the 17 hours we experience in Cape Horn.

Puerto Montt’s population is approximately 250,000.  It is currently one of Chile’s most rapidly expanding cities due to its booming salmon industry.  It is one of Chile’s top five exports.

This town was once layered in dense forest and was named Melipulli.  Following the clearing of the region, the city was established in 1853 and was named in honor of Manuel Montt, Chile’s president from 1851 to 1861. 

We started our tour with a visit to Monumento Natural Lahuen Nadi.  It is home to some of the oldest trees in the world.  Its’ forest is one of the few places in the Chilean Central Valley, where mature Alerce stands are preserved, some of them reaching ages of 1,800 years.   Throughout the tour, we heard the calls of birds like Chucao, Huet-Huet, Diucon, Traile and others.

In 1848, Chile encouraged German immigrantion due to a war in Germany.  During WWII, many German Jews fled to Chile.   Kenny and I visited a charming German Settlers Museum located in Frutillar.  The structure resembled a small Swiss Chalet.  Everything was so clean and orderly.  It was an unbelievable sight of blacksmith tools, phonographs, stoves, carriages, clothing, photographs, etc. that have been preserved here.  We were able to walk through 150 years of history.

Our next stop was Puerto Varas, the “City of Roses”, for its many rose-lined streets.  This village was built by German immigrants over 150 years ago and proudly boasts its’ Bavarian charms.  It rests on the shores of Llanquihue Lake (second largest lake in Chile).  Due to dense clouds, we were unable to see the snow-capped Osorno Volcano.  The town was filled with buses and tourists.  I felt as if we were walking through the square in Jackson Hole, Wyoming during the summer.

After leaving the “City of Roses”, we returned to the pier for the tender ride to the ship. Then it was time to set sail for San Antonio Port and then drive to Santiago.

Amalia Glacier

On Sunday, around 5:40 pm, we reached the beautiful Amalia Glacier.  This is located in southern Chile on the edge of Sarmiento Channel.  It is a tidewater glacier located within the massive Bernardo O’Higgins National Park. 

It seemed as if every passenger was on top of the ship waiting to arrive at the Amalia Glacier.  As we approached the area, you could see the massive, jagged mountains in the distance.  Coming upon the glacier, one was in awe at the eerie baby blue color.  The fresh air, the stillness of the bay and the coloration of the glacier took your breath away.  The ship made a complete turn-around so everyone had an opportunity to enjoy a picturesque view of the glacier.

As I looked at the glacier, all I could think about was the beauty of God’s creation and the opportunity I had to enjoy it.

After about an hour, the Captain gave the order and the ship proceeded out of the bay and on toward our next port of call, Puerto Montt.

Punta Arenas, Chile

In the early hours of the morning, the ship approached Punta Arenas, located inside the Magellan Strait. 

Punta Arenas is the capital city of Chile’s southernmost region.  This is a nice town with a population of 130,000.  This area is known for tourism, cruises and scientific expeditions.  It is a base for Antarctic Expeditions.

In 1843, this area was used as a penal colony and a disciplinary posting for military personnel with “problematic” behavior.  Immigrants settled here in 1851.  From 1890 to 1940, it was one of the most important sheep raising regions in the country.

It is summer in the area, so the average temp is 50 degrees.  Rainfall is highest in April and May and the snowy season runs throughout the winter months of June to September.  This city is also known for its strong winds of up to 80 mph, which are strongest during the summer.

The day before, while on the ship, I noticed several passengers with their bags marked “Antarctica.”  One of the excursions was an Antarctica landing expedition.  They would fly to Antarctica for a full-day excursion to Villa Las Estrellas, a Chilean Antarctic settlement.  It was a 2.5 hour flight from Punta Arenas.  When they landed, they would go to one of the oldest and most important meteorological stations.  They would then hike to see wildlife preserves and glaciers.  After four hours, they would board the plane back to Punta Arenas.  This excursion sounded exciting, but it was pricey.  Also, I didn’t know if I could handle the weather.

There were other tours to Paine National Park, which is known for its soaring mountains, bright blue icebergs that cleave from glaciers and golden pampas (grasslands).  This entailed a forty minute flight to Puerto Natales and then a 2.5 hour drive to the park.

Several of the passengers chose to do a city tour.  Kenny and I selected a catamaran trip to Magdalena Island to observe a Magellanic penguin colony of approximately 25,000.  This is one of Chile’s largest and most important Magellanic penguin breeding sites.  These penguins are sometimes called Jackass penguin, and one of the largest of the warm-water penguin colonies. 

We began our morning with another beautiful rainbow to the north.  We boarded the catamaran with about 65 other passengers and 10 crew.  It was a nice ride to the island with dolphins following alongside most of the way to the island.  A whale was also spotted in the distance.

It was an exciting approach to the island, as you could see a great number of penguins along the shore and swimming in the ocean.  As we arrived, the tour guide asked us each to put on an orange life-jacket.  I thought it was odd, since we were already docking.  But we all obeyed and put them on.  I thought that with the orange life jackets on, the tour guide would be able to spot everyone on the island and to make sure that people stayed on the correct hiking path.

As we walked the plank from the boat to land, we noticed that the wind was beginning to pick up and the boat was swaying from side to side. 

The penguins were there to greet us. We walked to the official sign “Welcome To Monumento Natural Los Pinguinos”.  Lots of photos were taken.  We then proceeded on the trail to the top of the island where there was a lighthouse.  We were told not to touch the penguins and that they always had the “right of way”. 

I had on several layers of clothing as well as my hat and gloves.  I was comfortable, but I could tell the temperature was dropping and the wind was getting stronger.

As I walked along the trail, I could see many burrows of breeding pairs.  The colony was filled with penguins and baby chicks that were squawking and shrieking.  Every few steps I was stopping and taking photos of the penguins.  It was hard to believe I was in the middle of a colony of penguins. 

The trail up to the lighthouse was steep and rocky, but I made it.  As soon as I turned the corner at the top, the wind was gusting to at least 50 mph.  I had to hold on to a guide rope in order to stay on the trail.  As I began the descent, it felt as if the wind would blow me away.  I finally got down the hill and the wind decreased.

We spent about one hour on the island enjoying the penguins, seagulls and the ocean in front of us.

As I boarded the ferry, I noticed white caps out in the water.  I thought it might be a rough ride back, but did not yet realize how rough it would actually be.  We had barely pushed away from the island, when one passenger got seasick.  The domino effect began.  The seas were rough, with swells at about 6 feet.  Instead of our return taking 1.5 hours to Punta Arenas, it took 3 hours.  

Out of the 75 passenger/crew members, only 10 people didn’t get sick.  I am glad to say that once again, Kenny and I, were 2 of the ten that were fortunate enough not to get seasick.  I had never seen anything like it.  There were three passengers that became quite ill and could not make it off the ferry on their own when we finally docked.  The crew members said it was one of their worst rides.

Everybody was glad to be back to the dock, but we weren’t excited about boarding the ship, as we had tendered to the dock from the ship.  So that meant, we had to get back on the water in a small tender boat to get to the ship. 

Among the passengers waiting to get on the tender, I overheard that the Antarctic trip had been cancelled due to the stormy weather and ferries going out that afternoon to Magdalena Island had also been cancelled.  People on the Park excursion were able to get there and back.

We were glad to be back on the ship.  When I got in my cabin, I checked a brochure about the Magdalena Island excursion and read the part that said:  “Rough sea conditions can be experienced on this catamaran ride to Magdalena Island; passengers prone to seasickness should take this into consideration”.  Lesson learned.  Make sure you read everything about an excursion beforehand.  Everybody was just excited about seeing the penguins. No one gave any thought about getting seasick.

Ushaia, Argentina - "End of the World"

The ship entered the port of Ushaia at 10:30 p.m.  The sunset and the twinkling of the city lights nestled into the mountains made a great photo.

The next morning as I ate breakfast I captured some beautiful photographs of this quaint little town.  Fishing boats and small barges were docked throughout.  There were homes and businesses of various colors. The blues, yellows & reds offered a palette of color.

It wasn’t time to go ashore, so Kenny and I walked around the ship to see all sides of Ushaia.  As I turned a corner, I captured a rainbow on the port side.  I knew that it was going to be a beautiful day. 

We boarded the bus for our half-day tour of Ushaia.  Our guide, Anna, was a young lady in her 20’s.  Her parents were doctors who had left Buenos Aires thirty years ago to settle in this community.  Forty years ago the population was about 5,000 and today it is 70,000.  Anna said that she loved Ushaia, but the one thing missing is the older generation, there are no grandparents.  Sixty percent of the population is under the age of 18.

Ushaia is known as the southernmost city in the world and is the capital of the Tierra del Fuego province, which includes the Argentine arctic islands and the Islas Malvinas.   It is nicknamed the “End of the World”.   

As picturesque as Ushaia is, it was known as the “Siberia of Argentina”.   A penal colony was set up in 1896.  The early city’s buildings and infrastructure, including the railway were built by forced convict labor.  The prison closed in 1947.

 

The main economy is lumber, sheep, fishing, trapping and tourism. 

On our tour, we would visit the Pipo River Valley in the Tierra del Fuego National Park; Ensenada Bay overlooking Beagle Channel; Roca Lake and Lapataia Bay (which is the last stop on the Pan-American Highway that begins in Alaska and stretches nearly 12,000 miles are two continents.

When we arrived at Lapataia Bay, there were other busses with tourists there as well to see this beautiful area.  This bay was formed by the glacier forces that shaped the entire area. 

Many individuals were hiking through this area, which winds through stunning coastal scenery and offers an opportunity to see wildlife, such as dolphins, otters, ducks, etc.  Of course, Kenny and I had our picture taken with the sign for Tierra del Fuego National Park.

Off to the visitor center, we took a coffee break.  While we were waiting for everyone to get on the bus, Kenny and I walked down to the lake and in the distance we could hear a bird quacking.  It was a male, White Fronted Goose.  A few yards to the right, we could see a dark head bobbing in the grass.  It was the female and she had seven goslings.  All at once, the male wobbled over to the female and their young and they moved away from the lake.  With the female in the lead, the seven goslings followed in a line and the male brought up the rear.  They moved through the tall grass, across a gravel road and then up the hill to the Visitor Center.  It was as if they wanted to show off their family to the tourists.

Ensenada Bay overlooks the Beagle Channel. This is named after the ship that carried English naturalist, Charles Darwin.  This is also where the Post Office at the “End of the World” is located.  Another great photo shot is with the sign showing different distances from the “End of the World”: Buenos Aires, the Arctic, Antarctica, Paris, New York, etc.

Last stop was Roca Lake.  One third of this lake is Argentinian territory and the remaining portion is the territory of Chile.  When we got off the bus to take photos it was sunny and warm and within seconds, the wind began to blow and it became overcast and the temperature dropped.  We didn’t stay long.

We returned to the pier to board the ship and sail forth to Punta Arenas.

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Rounding Cape Horn

I could hardly believe that I was sailing around Cape Horn.  In my wildest dreams, I never thought that I would be at the end of the world.

It was overcast, windy and chilly outside.  The temperature was in the upper 40s with a wind chill of about 30.  The seas were still rough, but not as rough as they were the day before.  Fortunately it is summer season at the southern tip of South America.  Since it is summer, the days are longer as well.

The sun rises at 5:00 am and sets around 10:15 pm.  Almost 17 hours of daylight.  I would hate to be here during the winter months, when the days and nights are a lot colder and you only have about 6 to 7 hours of daylight.

It was about noon and Kenny and I wanted to be on the upper deck to be able to experience rounding the Horn.  We bundled up with several layers of clothes and grabbed our cameras.  There was already at least 800 passengers on top.

As we began to round the Cape, a historical expert on the ship provided the background of the Horn via the ships’ intercom.

Cape Horn is the southernmost headland of the Tierra del Fuego archipelago of southern-Chile and it is located on the small Hornos Island.  It marks the northern boundary of the Drake Passage and where the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans meet.

Cape Horn was discovered and first rounded by the Dutchman Willem Schouten, who named it after the city of Hoorn in the Netherlands.

To imagine all the sailors and vessels that have traveled this path.  Columbus and Magellan were trying to find a quick passage West in order to bring spices from the Asian countries back to Europe.  Pepper, nutmeg and cloves were worth their weight in gold. Columbus went west and discovered America. Magellan discovered the fast passage West via the Magellan Strait and then was the first to circumnavigate the globe.

Looking out at the land, it was hard to imagine anyone every living in this area.  All I could think about was the frigid water, bleak days and the barren land.

After experiencing this adventure, I am ready to return home and read more about these men that were determined to discover new lands and therefore prove that the world was indeed round and it could be sailed around without falling off the edge.

Falkland Islands

Today was a sea day and we were sailing to the Falkland Islands.  Everybody on board was excited.  There were passengers that had tried reaching the Falklands several years ago, but due to bad weather the ship was not able to reach the Island.

Mid-morning, the Captain announced that due to a weather depression coming from Antarctica, the Star Princess would not be able to sail to the Islands.  The ship would be slowing down to handle the rough seas that we would soon be encountering.  Staying on our current course, we would be able to arrive at Cape Horn on our scheduled date.  You could hear many passengers complaining, but we all knew that the Captain was making a smart choice and keeping us safe.

I began to think of all the small ships that sailed to the Falkland Islands never knowing what weather they would encounter.  How many lives and ships were lost in the early years? 

As the morning progressed, the swells became large and the ship was creaking and moaning.  The swells were eight to ten feet.  Passengers were staying in their cabins due to sea sickness.

Kenny and I attended various lectures, ate, took cha-cha lessons and read.  It was a quiet day on board.

We will have to see the Falkland Islands another time.

Falkland Islands have played a large part in military history.  The Island is east of the lower extent of Argentina and is still a part of Britain.  Two well-known battles have been fought for this island.  In 1914, there was a battle between British and German fleets, which Britain won.  The second battle was in 1982 between Britain and Argentina and Britain won.  This island remains a very sensitive issue with the Argentineans.

Sights that you can see:
* Christ Church Cathedral, the southern most Anglican cathedral in the world
* Whalebone Arch, made from the jaws of two blue whales
* Rockhoppers penguins. The smallest of penguins, with elaborately curled “eyebrows”.

Rough seas continued throughout the day and evening. In two days, we would be rounding the Horn.

Montivideo, Uruguay

As the early morning sunrise woke me in my cabin, I could see the burnt orange sun rising above the horizon to the east.  The beauty took my breath away.

I began my day on the fourteenth floor of the ship having breakfast and then I headed to the top deck to watch the cruise ship guided in by a tug boat to Puerto de Montevideo.

Here I was in South American enjoying another beautiful sunny day.

From the cruise ship, one could see palm trees and the buildings of lovely European-influenced architecture.  This city’s diverse range of art deco and colonial style architecture clearly reflects its multicultural history, drawing on Portuguese, Spanish, British, French and Italian influences.

There were taxis and buses waiting on the dock to take passengers on their excursions.  Kenny and mine’s tour was going to be of the city, the soccer museum and the Legislative Palace.  We were anxious to discover a new city.

Some interesting facts that I learned about Uruguay:

* second smallest country in South America
* located on the southern-most point on the Rio de la Plata’s northern shore.  Rio de la Plata is the widest river in the world.
* situated between Brazil and Argentina
* population of approximately 3 ½ million
* 52% of the population are women
* over 450 species of birds
* 12 million head of cattle/4 head per person

Interesting facts about Montevideo:
* capitol of Uruguay
* Origin of the name, Montevideo. One theory is that it refers to the Hill of Montevideo on the bay of Montevideo’s western side.  “Monte” is Spanish for mountain or hill.
* known for being very literate.  Many established writers are from this city.
* “El Tango Supremo” song originated in Montevideo

The first stop was Plaza Independencia, which divides the Old Town and the newer downtown.  The gateway is all that remains of the wall that once protected the oldest neighborhood in Montevideo.  From the plaza is the main street, Avenida 18 de Julio.  Along the palm street of the Avenue are historical buildings, shops and cafes.  This major street was named in honor of the day that Uruguay obtained independence from Brazil and Argentina.

We then drove to the beautiful Legislative Palace.  This palace is considered one of the three most beautiful legislative buildings in the world.  The guards that stand outside and inside the building are dressed in uniforms that offer the appearance of the time of the French Revolution.  The paintings, stained glass windows and marble structure within the building are so ornate.

From the Palace we then went to the Futbol Museum.  The national futbol stadium, Estadio Centernario, opened in 1930, for the first World Cup.  Uruguay won the World Cup in 1930 and 1950.

One of our last stops was to see the location of the Battle of the River Plate. The wind was blowing and  green parakeets were flying everywhere.  They blended in so well with the trees that you could hardly see them. This site was the first naval battle of WWII between a German ship and two British cruisers.

On our way back to the ship, we saw Punta Del Este, which is South America’s most famous seaside resort. The sandy beaches were all along the shoreline with families enjoying their holiday at the beach.

We dropped some passengers off at the Port Market, where there are vendors grilling meats, selling clothes, crafts and souvenirs, as well as musicians performing.

Even though Uruguay is a very small country, the people are friendly and eager to share and explain about their beautiful land to others.

We boarded the ship and prepared for our 5:30 p.m. departure.  Tomorrow will be a sea day as we sail to Puerto Madryn, Argentina.

Puerto Madryn - peninsula of wildlife

Today is Monday, January 7^th and the Star Princess docked at Piedra Buena Pier, which is located in Puerto Madryn, Argentina, in the province of Patagonia.

It is summer and the temperatures range to the high 60s.  This is a small coastal city with beautiful beaches and icy blue Atlantic waters.  Most people enjoy coming to this area to see the wildlife, including Magellanic penguins, sea lions sunning on rocky cliffs and the large numbers of elephant seals basking on the beaches.

What is interesting about Puerto Madryn is this small community was established in 1865 by 150 colonists from Wales.  They were seeking to escape from religious persecution in Britain.  The Argentina government promised to give them 100 squares miles of land along the Chubut River.  The settlers named it Port Madryn in honor of Baron Madryn of their native Wales. 

Today this town, population of approximately 100,000, is one of the fastest growing cities in Argentina due to the opening of Aluar aluminum factory, fishing and tourism.

There were many different excursions one could choose from at this location.  The tour that Kenny and I selected was visiting Valdes peninsula.  This peninsula is one of the Southern Hemisphere’s major wildlife preserves.

We drove about 30 miles outside of Puerto Madryn before exiting off on a dusty, rocky road that lead to the peninsula.  It would be another 1 1/2 hours before we would reach the destination of the sea lions.  As we traveled on this road, we begin to see guanacos (related to llamas) running through the rugged coastline and plateaus.  Driving through this region, the terrain reminded me of Big Bend National Park in Texas.  Our guide told us that this area only gets about 200 milliters of rain per year. 

Our first stop was Puerto Piramide, which is a small fishing village on the Golfo Nuevo.  As you looked at  the rocky cliffs, you could hear the sea lions in the background.  The cry of the baby sea lions was the sound of a bleating sheep.  The sea lions live here year round and their breeding time is in the summer.

Males weigh from 600 to 700 kilograms and females are half that size.  Their life expectancy is 20 years.  Gestation is 11 ½ months.  The pups weigh approximately 4 kilograms at birth.  During their first two months they live on land and the female feeds them.  After two months, they enter the ocean to begin to look for their own food.

We loaded back into the bus and headed to where the Magellanic penguins reside during the summer months.  When we arrived the penguins were waiting for us as we walked along the boardwalk to observe them.

The Magellanic penguins inhabit the coast of Argentina and Chile, during the breeding season.  In some areas, there are around 46,500 couples.  These penguins keep the same mate for life.  The males arrive first in August and take possession of their nest area (the same nests that they had a year ago); using the same stones to build and protect the nests.  The females arrive in September.  The couple incubates between one to three eggs for 40 days.  Both male and female share the preparation and protection of the nest.

 

The baby chicks are born with gray, downy feathers and after two months their feathers are coated with the protective oil that allows them to enter the water.  The chicks can then begin to find their own food.  April begins their annual migration to winter homes.

Magellanic penguins swim as far as 600 km from their nests to feed and to obtain food for their chicks.  On average they can descend 12 m for approximately one minute.  They hunt anchovies, squid and other types of water creatures.

It was hard to leave the penguins, but we wanted to see the elephant seals before we had to be back at the ship.

Back on the dusty road we went.  Next stop was Caleta Valdes to see the elephant seals. We arrived and headed to the board walk to observe them from the top of the cliff.  These huge creatures lay up and down the beach, close to the surf and basking in the sun. 

When the elephant seals give birth, the females nurse their pups for twenty-three days and then they are on their own.

Our 2 ½ hour drive back to the ship was quiet as everyone was sleeping.  I enjoyed looking out the window looking for more guanacos and hoping to see a Darwin’s rhea.  The rhea is a large, flightless bird that reminds you of an ostrich.  This was the first time I had seen one.

Arriving at the port, we saw the Star Princess and locals and tourists playing on the beach and sailing boats across the windy water.

Tomorrow we are at sea and in two days we will be exploring the Falkland Islands.

Guanacos

Gaucho - "Romancing the Pampas"

Do you remember the movie “Romancing the Stone” from the 80s with Michael Douglas and Kathleen Turner?  Kathleen Turner went to Bolivia looking for a map to give to her sister’s kidnappers.  Well my day was “Romancing the Pampas”.

My morning started early by connecting with a small group of twelve people.  Lucia was the charming guide who had so much knowledge of Buenos Aires and Argentina.  The other people in the group were all from the U.S. (New York, Chicago, Las Vegas and Houston).

We left the city to head north towards San Antonio de Arco.  Traffic flowed, heading north of the freeway.  Traffic going south into the city was another story….very slow and bumper to bumper.

Lucia described what our day at the estancia(ranch) would be like.  It would take about 90 minutes to get to the ranch.  It was about five miles off the road. 

There are two ranches, La Bamba and El Ombu de Areco.  Between the two ranches, there is about 600 acres.  We would be visiting El Ombu de Areco.  This enchanting property is filled with sycamore trees, ombu bushes and a variety of birds.  Ombus, native to the pampas, are very large evergreen shrubs that are often mistaken for trees because of its umbrella like canopy and massive trunk.  Ombus is well known among the pampas because it protects the gauchos from the sun and heat.

In the early years, this property was used as a stopping place from Buenos Aires to Peru.  It is now a place for people to come from Buenos Aires to get away from a hectic work schedule, crowds and crime.

Lucia proceeded to talk about the gaucho(cowboy) and their lifestyle and their working attire. 

The gaucho carries a poncho, which doubles as a saddle blanket or as his sleeping gear; he carries his falcon(large knife) behind him; his rebenque(leather whip) which is used to corral the horses or cow; wearing his bombachas(loose fitting trousers and of course his tirador(belt).

In discussing the gaucho, Lucia stated that Walt Disney came up with “El Gaucho Goofy” after visiting Argentina.  In a particular episode, Goofy who was an American cowboy who was kidnapped to Argentina to learn the ways of a native gaucho.  Disney was such an incredible man in his way of thinking.

We arrived in San Antonio de Areco, a town of 23,000 people, and headed to the town square where we saw a silversmith at work; a woman teaching a class of pottery and to see the church, St. Anthony of Padua.

After spending about an hour in town, we headed out to El Ombu de Areco.   As we traveled to the ranch, I began to see the dark clouds approaching from the horizon.  Normally where there is dark clouds there is a downpour of rain.

As we turned off the paved road onto the red dirt road, the skies opened up and the rainstorm began.  We were told we could not go any further due to the rain and muddy road conditions.  The van would never make it to the ranch.  The owner sent out his covered four wheel drive trucks.

Getting into the back of the truck was something else.  It was pouring and the wind was blowing. Umbrellas were turning inside/out.  Everyone was soaked from head to toe.

I was the last one into the truck; soaked and red mud spattered all over me and my shoes.  I am glad I didn’t wear an expensive pair of shoes.

Off we went, sliding and skidding from one side of the road to the next.  Getting stuck in areas.  Our driver/gaucho had done this a few times so he knew how to handle the truck.

As we turned off the muddy road into the ranch, the rain stopped and the sun was smiling down on us.  Our gaucho/driver assisted us out of the truck and showed us which house to go to for empanadas and wine.  The smell of the empanadas drew us into the house.  One could just not have one of the fried pastry filled with meat. 

After our rest, the gauchos escorted us to the stables.  The beautiful horses filled the corral.  They were waiting to be released into the pasture.  Some went horseback riding and the rest of us piled into a covered wagon to explore the enchanting grounds.

 

Our driver only spoke Spanish.  But to hear him speak with such a smooth Spanish accent, dressed in his gaucho attire, one wondered what our ride would entail.

Out in the pasture were the horses with their fawns close by enjoying the green grass and fresh air.

As we tumbled along the dirt path, you could hear the parakeets squawking in the background.  All of the sudden, you saw a swarm of green parakeets take off from the pastures and flew up into the air into the next pasture.

The naked eye could see hawks sitting in the pastures enjoying the grasshoppers before them.

Riding along the dirt road and observing the surroundings one would think they were in Texas riding along the open plains coastal area near South Texas.

After such a peaceful ride, we entered into the ranch house to enjoy a typical meal of meat, potatoes and wine.  The red Malbec wine was flowing from glass to glass with everyone in deep conversation over their adventures throughout the day.

When our stomachs were full and we were relaxed from drinking wine and breathing the fresh air, the gauchos invited us outside to enjoy a time of singing folklores and dancing.  As we danced, one of the ranch hand’s four year old son joined in on the festivities.  Dressed in his gaucho outfit, he enjoyed dancing with the ladies around him.  His charm brought a smile to everyone’s face.

The festivities ended with a horse whisper who has worked with his horse for many months to teach the horse how to move with the music, such as a person tangos with his partner.

We hated the day to end, but once again we could see the dark clouds accumulating and knew that a rainstorm was not far away.  The gaucho helped us back into the four wheel drive and off we took, sliding from one side to the next.

As we reached the paved road and saw the van waiting to take us back to Buenos Aires, we knew that our time of peacefulness had ended.  The gaucho unloaded us with a smile on his face and a twinkle to his eye.  “Romancing the Pampas” will always be with me.

Day 4 - San Antonio de Areco

As I opened the curtains in our hotel room, I could see along the horizon of the river, a cruise ship coming into the dock area.  Tomorrow, we will be boarding the Princess Cruise ship, which will cruise along the eastern side of Argentina to Uruguay and then to the Falkland Islands and thence around Cape Horn to explore the western side of Chile up to Santiago.

The phone rang to let us know that our tour guide, Lucia, was waiting for us downstairs to take us to San Antonio de Areco and then onto Estancia El Ombu de Areco.

In the van, there were four other families that would be touring with us.  The families were from Chicago, Las Vegas, Houston and New York City.  We felt right at home as we climbed into the van.

Lucia talked about the history of Buenos Aires as well as the country of Argentina.  The highways were crowded as we headed north.  San Antonio de Areco is about 70 miles north of Buenos Aires.  It is a small town of about 23,000.  I also found out that it's sister city is Laredo, Texas.  That was very interesting to learn as I have been to Laredo many times.

In the town, we went to a silversmith shop, where a man was working on designing new silver pieces.  We then saw a group of ladies making pottery.  We walked to St. Anthony of Padua church, which was erected in 1728.  It overlooks the center of the square.

We gathered back into the van to head towards Estancia El Ombu de Areco to ride horses, eat steak and drink wine and sing folk songs with the gauchos.  The ranch was only about fifteen minutes away from the town.  But as we drove, we could see dark clouds accumulate on the horizon and we knew that a rainstorm was about to hit.

As we turned off the main road onto the muddy road, the skies opened up.  The van could not go any further on this muddy road.  The ranch which was about five miles from the road.  The owner sent four wheel drive trucks to come pick us up.

Skidding and sliding through the mud, we arrived at the ranch.  The gauchos were waiting for us to serve us empanadas, drink wine, ride horses/carriages and sing folk songs and dancing.  The gauchos also entertained with stunning displays of equestrian skills, including horse whispering.

The flocks of green parakeets flying and the horses roaming in the pasture were a sight to see.

As the sun began to set, we had to leave this quiet pace and endless beauty of the pampas.

If you are wanting a place to escape from the city life of Buenos Aires, this is the place to go.

On my next blog, I will write about the gauchos.  Stay tuned for "Romancing the Pampas".

Day 3 - Buenos Aires

Happy New Year!  Hard to believe that it is 2019!  It feels like it was just yesterday that the world was patiently waiting for 1999 to role into the new Millenium, 2000.  Here it is nineteen years later and I am waking up in Buenos Aires.  Who would have thought?

It is early morning, around 9 a.m., and the streets are quiet as some people have just gone to bed.  I heard fireworks and laughter all through the night.  There is something special about seeing in a new year.  A new year offering new promises and hope.

Along the dock and bridge, there is trash and empty bottles of wine, beer, champagne and coca-cola. I don’t envy the people who will be cleaning up this mess.

We crossed over the bridge and headed towards La Casa Rosada.  Along the way, we saw Centro Cultural Kirchner.  This building was completed in 1928 and was used as a post office.  Since 2015, it has been used as the cultural center. It is now under renovation.

Outside of the Presidential Office, hanging over the balcony is a huge flag saying 2019.  I guess the Presidential office is trying to state that there will be a new year of promises and hope for the Argentinian people.

Presidential elections are this year.  The economy is in a crisis.  Unemployment is high, taxes are high, the pesos is worth nothing....  The Argentina’s prefer the actual American dollar to their own peso.

Across the street of La Casa Rosada Plaza de Mayo is the Metropolitan Cathedral.  As we walked into the church, mass was being held promising the people new beginnings.  I thank God daily for His promises and that my life is not controlled by man, but the promises of Jesus Christ.

By looking at the Metropolitan Cathedral, one would think that it was a government office and not a typical Cathedral.  It is a 19th century neo-classical facade without the towers.  The interior is abundant neo-renaissance and neo-baroque decoration.  It was built in 1791.

Kenny and I left the church and proceeded down the quiet streets observing the European architecture.  With it being New Years Day, restaurants, retail stores and offices were closed.  Even McDonalds was closed.

After about a mile of walking, we approached 9 de Julio Avenue, which is a wide avenue.  It’s name honors Argentina’s Independence Day, July 9, 1816.  The avenue has up to 7 lanes in each direction and is flanked on either side by parallel streets of 2 lanes each.

Looking north of the Avenue, one could see the national Historic Monument, Obelisco.  I thought I was looking at the Washington Monument.  This monument is 221 feet tall with 206 steps and it was erected in 1936 to commemorate the quasi centennial of the first founding of the city.

As we headed back to our hotel, we saw the “Love Locks on the Puente de la Mujer Bridge”.  This reminded me of the Hallmark movie “Love Locks” with Rebecca Romijn and Jerry O’Connell. Thousand of padlocks grace the rail cables along the bridge, each one with the initials of a couple who locked the padlock to the bridge and threw away the key.  The ultimate symbol of love.  Kenny and I were not able to find a padlock, so we weren’t able to participate in this ritual.

The day ended with a beautiful sunset .

Tomorrow will be a day of adventure into the Argentina pampas.

Day 2 in Buenos Aires

After sleeping for almost ten hours, Kenny and I awoke to another bright & sun-shiny day.  The temperature outside was in the 70s and the high would hit the 80s.

As our feet hit the carpet, we knew that today would be filled with more discoveries in this beautiful city.

It is New Years Eve and it is very quiet outside.  We have learned that the surrounding banks and businesses are closed due to the long weekend holiday.

There was a steady wind blowing which made the temperature delightful.  We walked along the dock to discover there were two ships that are now museums.  One of the ships was the Fragata Presidents Sarmiento.  It was built in 1890 and was used as a training ship for the Argentine navy.

The other ship was the Uruguay, which was built in 1874.  It served as a gunboat, school ship, as well as an Antarctica rescue ship.  It was nice to learn the history of these two historic ships.

As we continued our walk, we came to the Taxi Monument.  It is the first of its kind, thanks to a grant from the Union of Laborers to acknowledge taxi drivers.  The monument opened in 2012.

We visited other neighborhoods, such as La Boca.  It is a working class area which has steakhouses and street artists.  It has a strong European flair, with many of its early settlers coming from the Italian city of Genoa.  Boca is also well known for its football club, Boca Juniors.  Colorful houses surround the entire area.  

As we walked along the streets, there were several couples dancing the Argentina Tango.  It was interesting to learn about the history of the tango.  The story of the tango actually began as a dance between men as they fought each other with knives.  It was similar to a duel and was eventually banned.  Afterwards the tango became popular among prostitutes as they enticed their customers.  And once again, the tango was banned in Argentina.  In the early 1900s, the tango became popular in Paris and then was eventually brought back to Argentina.

Today, this popular dance is very well known.  The Argentina tango has been shown in many movies, such as "Last Tango in Paris"; "Never Say Never Again"; "True Lies"; Evita"; "Scent of a Woman" and many others.

It was interesting walking a round the Plaza de Mayo.  This is where Evita Peron spoke from the balcony of the Casa Rosada  (office of the President) in the late 1940s.  Evita assisted Argentina women with the right to vote.

The Plaza is also an area where the people demonstrate and protest.  One of the groups of demonstrators is "The Madres de la Mayo".  In 1977, they demanded information about their missing children during Argentina's last military dictatorship.  The mothers protested the 30,000 people who disappeared (kidnapped/killed) during the 1970s.

Driving to the La Recoleta Cemetry, we came across a unique sculpture, Floralis Generica.  It is a sculpture made of steel and aluminum.  It is placed above a reflected pool and it is the "synthesis of all flowers".  As the flower opens in the mornings, it represents hope reborn.  The petals close at night.

As we got to the La Recoleta Cemetry, there were people coming and going.  This cemetery contains 4,691 vaults, which are all above ground.  It contains elaborate marble mausoleums that are decorated with statues.  Between 1880 and 1930, the materials of tomb construction were imported from Paris and Milan.  Evita Peron is buried in this cemetery, as well as other presidents and well-known people.

An unique tomb was the "Tomb of Liliana Crociati de Szaszak".  This young lady was twenty-six when she died in Austria.  She was on her honeymoon, when the hotel was struck by an avalanche.  The monument is of Liliana in her wedding dress with her dog.  Her dog had died on the same day in Buenos Aires.

The day ended with Kenny and I watching fireworks from the Puente de la Mujer footbridge.

Buenos Aires, Argentina

As Kenny and I left 8 degree temperature in Colorado, we knew that in twenty four hours we would be welcoming an 80 degree temperature in Buenos Aires, Argentina.  The excitement was building as we thought of our new adventure in South America.

After a six hour layover in Houston and the opportunity to visit with family, we got on the direct flight from Houston to Buenos Aires.  Over the intercom, I heard the flight attendant say the doors had been closed.  I snuggled into my seat to watch a movie and afterward sleep for part of the ten hour flight.

Seven hours into the flight, I cracked my window open to daylight and a spectacular view of the Andes Mountains.  

The pilot safely & smoothly landed the plane on the tarmac.  Kenny and I gathered our belongings and headed out into the airport to go through customs.  It took about 60 minutes to get through the usual customs experience. We then gathered our luggage and met our driver to take us to the hotel.

As we stepped out of the terminal, we could feel the heat and humidity.  The driver said a big storm had come through in that morning, but now the sun was waiting for us.

We arrived at the Hilton and dropped off our luggage in our room and then proceeded outside to find somewhere to eat.  We were hungry and tired from the flight, but we knew we needed to keep going to get our bodies adjusted to the South America time zone.

After a light snack, we looked at a map to get our bearings and decide where to start..

Our hotel is located in the Puerto Madero neighborhood, which is on the western shore of the Rio de la Plata.  Compared to other neighborhoods, we were thankful to find out we were in one of the safest areas. We noticed many city police as well as military police walking around the area.

Puerto Madero is a revamped dockside area.  This used to be where the ships would dock and drop off supplies and equipment.  The once red-brick warehouses are now converted into restaurants, businesses and residential homes.

We walked along the dock and crossed over the Puente de la Mujer Footbridge.  This footbridge rotates and the architecture of the bridge has been described as a synthesis of the image of a couple dancing the tango.

Along our walk, we talked to the locals and asked about the details of Buenos Aires.  Some facts we learned:

* Buenos Aires means “good airs” or “fairwinds”
* Buenos Aires is known as “Paris of the South”
* eclectic European architecture and rich cultural life
* common ethnic origin is Italian & Spanish.
* largest Jewish Community in Latin America
* population of Argentina is 45 million
* population of Buenos Aires metropolitan is 14 million
* population of Buenos Aires is 3 million
* currency is peso
* the country is known for soccer and tango dancing
* etc

We learned a lot on our first day in Buenos Aires and can hardly wait to see what the next few days will bring.